Dryer Takes Two Cycles to Dry? Here is the Forensic Fix

If you have to restart your dryer because your jeans are still damp after 60 minutes, you are not just wasting time. You are doubling your electricity bill and potentially overheating your home’s wiring.

A dryer that takes two cycles to dry is rarely “broken” in the traditional sense. It is usually “suffocating.”

In 15+ years of diagnosing appliances, I’ve found that 80% of these calls aren’t dead heating elements they are airflow restrictions. When moist air cannot escape, it re-condenses on your clothes, creating a sauna inside the drum. You get hot, steamy, wet laundry.

This guide skips the generic “clean your lint screen” advice you’ve seen a dozen times. We are going to perform a forensic audit of your machine’s airflow, moisture sensing system, and voltage supply.

 

The “Master Problem List”: Why It’s Happening (Quick Scan)

Before we start tearing things apart, check this symptom chart. It will likely point you to the exact failure point immediately.

 

Symptom	Likely Cause	Probability	Repair Difficulty
Clothes are HOT but WET	Restricted Exhaust Vent / Crushed Hose	High (80%)	🟢 Easy (DIY)
Top of dryer feels burning hot	Blocked Airflow (Heat trap)	High	🟢 Easy (DIY)
Timer jumps to “End” quickly	Glazed Moisture Sensors (Dryer Sheets)	Med (15%)	🟢 Very Easy
No heat at all (Drum spins)	Blown Thermal Fuse or Lost 240V Leg	Med	🟡 Moderate
Clothes lukewarm after cycle	Grounded Heating Element (Partial failure)	Low	🔴 Advanced
“Flow Sense” light is on	Duct run exceeds 35 feet (Code Violation)	Med	🟡 Moderate

 

The Airflow Audit (80% of Cases)

 

The “Hot but Damp” Paradox Explained

This is the single most common confusion I see. Homeowners tell me, “It can’t be the vent, the clothes are boiling hot!”

That is exactly why it IS the vent.

A dryer needs to breathe. It sucks in dry room air, heats it, saturates it with moisture from your clothes, and pushes it outside. If that exit is blocked by lint, a bird’s nest, or a crushed hose, the moisture has nowhere to go. It stays in the drum. Your dryer becomes a steamer.

Code Violation: Is Your Vent Hose Too Long?

In the USA, dryer venting must comply with IRC M1502 (International Residential Code). This isn’t just bureaucracy; it’s physics. Most blower motors are rated to push air about 35 feet.

The Math of Failure:

• Maximum allowed length:35 feet (for rigid metal duct).
• The “Elbow Penalty”: For every 90-degree turn (elbow), you must subtract 5 feet from that total.
• The “Flexible” Penalty: If you are using that cheap white vinyl or foil accordion hose, cut your efficiency in half. That stuff creates massive turbulence.

Diagnostic Step: Go behind your dryer. Count the turns. If your vent goes up the wall, across the ceiling, and out the side of the house (3 elbows), your max length is only 20 feet. If you are pushing 30 feet with 3 elbows, you are doomed to slow drying times until you install a Booster Fan.

The Garbage Bag Test (Visual Airflow Proof)

You don’t need a $200 anemometer to test your flow. You can use a kitchen trash bag. This “poor man’s pressure test” is surprisingly accurate.

Tools Needed:

• 1 Standard 13-gallon kitchen garbage bag.
• Electrical tape or duct tape.

The Procedure:

1. Go outside to where your dryer vent exits the house (the hood/flapper).
2. Clear away any obvious lint from the screen.
3. Tape the open mouth of the garbage bag over the vent hood. Seal it relatively well so air must go into the bag.
4. Have a helper turn the dryer on Air Fluff / No Heat.

The Verdict:

• Pass:The bag should inflate like a balloon in under 5 seconds and feel firm to the touch.
• Fail:If the bag lazily fills up, takes 10+ seconds, or doesn’t get firm, your duct is clogged. You need a Dryer Vent Cleaning Kit.

Deep Cleaning the Internal Blower Wheel (The Hidden Clog)

Everyone cleans the duct in the wall. Almost everyone forgets the Blower Wheel.

This is the fan blade inside the dryer that pushes the air. Over years, a thin layer of lint pastes itself onto the curved blades. This changes the aerodynamics of the fan. Even a 1/8th-inch layer of lint can reduce air movement (CFM) by 30%.

How to Check:

1. Unplug the unit.Safety first.
2. Remove the lint filter.
3. Use a flashlight to look down into the lint trap slot.
4. On many models, you can see part of the white or black plastic fan wheel.
5. If you see “fuzzy” blades, you need to open the cabinet.
6. Use a Shop-Vacwith a narrow crevice tool or a long flexible radiator brush to gently dislodge the caked-on lint.

 

Pro-Diagnostic Tip: If you hear a low rumbling or vibration when the dryer runs, your blower wheel might be unbalanced due to heavy lint buildup on just one side.

The “Invisible” Failures (Sensors & Voltage)

If you performed the Garbage Bag Test and your airflow is strong, yet the dryer still shuts off early or runs for hours, the problem is internal. It is no longer a “breathing” issue; it is a “brain” or “heart” issue.

In this phase, we diagnose the two systems that control the drying cycle: the Moisture Sensing System (the brain) and the Heating Circuit (the heart).

The “Dryer Sheet Glaze” Phenomenon (Cleaning Moisture Bars)

This is the #1 cause of dryers that shut off early on “Auto Dry” but work fine on “Timed Dry.”

The Science of Failure:
Modern dryers use Conductive Moisture Sensing. Two metal bars inside the drum pass a tiny 5-volt DC signal through the tumbling clothes.

• Wet Clothes:Water conducts electricity → The circuit is closed → The timer pauses (heating continues).
• Dry Clothes:Fabric acts as an insulator → The circuit breaks → The timer advances to “Cool Down.”

The Saboteur: Stearic Acid
Dryer sheets (like Bounce or Downy) are coated in stearic acid (animal fat) or cationic surfactants. When heated, this waxy substance melts onto your clothes to reduce static. It also coats the moisture sensor bars.
Over months, an invisible, clear, insulating film builds up on the metal. The sensors cannot “feel” the wet clothes through this wax. The computer thinks the load is bone-dry after 5 minutes and shuts off.

The Fix (5 Minutes):

1. Locate the Bars:Open the door. Look at the lint filter housing or the back wall. You will see two curved metal strips.
2. The Test:If they look dull or feel slightly “tacky,” they are glazed.
3. The Scrub:
   • Do NOT use water.Water repels the wax.
   • Do NOT use a rag.It’s not abrasive enough.
   • Use:A fine-grit sandpaper (400-grit), a green Scotch-Brite pad, or an alcohol wipe.
   • Action:Scrub the bars vigorously until they shine like new chrome.

Pro-Diagnostic Tip: If you own an LG or Samsung dryer, you can put the machine in “Diagnostic Mode” (check your manual for the button combo). It will display a number (0–255) representing the moisture reading. Touch the bars with a wet finger; if the number doesn’t spike, your sensors are dead or disconnected.

 

Testing the Heating Element for “Partial Grounding”

Most homeowners assume a heating element works like a lightbulb: it’s either ON or OFF.
False. A dryer heating element can fail in a way that produces 50% heat. We call this a “Grounded Element.”

The Physics of a Partial Failure:
US dryers run on 240 Volts. This is supplied by two 120V “legs” (L1 and L2).

• Normal Operation:The coil receives 120V from L1 and 120V from L2. Total = 240V (High Heat).
• The Failure:The coil wire breaks mid-span. The broken end sags and touches the metal heater housing (ground).
• The Result:The element now completes a circuit from L1 to Ground (120V).
  • The dryer runs.
  • It gets warm (not hot).
  • It takes 3 cyclesto dry a load because it is running at half-power.

The Multimeter Test (Mandatory):
You cannot eyeball this. You must use a multimeter.

1. Safety:Unplug the dryer.
2. Access:Remove the back panel (or front toe panel on some models) to expose the heater box.
3. Set Meter:Turn dial to Continuity/Ohms (Ω) (the horseshoe symbol).
4. Test 1 (Continuity):Touch probes to the two main terminals of the element.
   • Good Reading:10–50 Ω.
   • Bad Reading:Infinite / OL (The wire is snapped).
5. Test 2 (Ground Check):Touch one probe to a terminal, and the other probe to the metal housing
   • Good Reading:OL (Open Loop / No Connection).
   • Bad Reading:Any beep or number. This means the live wire is touching the metal case. REPLACE IMMEDIATELY.

 

The Cycling Thermostat: Is It Drifting?

The Cycling Thermostat is the traffic cop for heat. It sits on the blower housing and tells the element when to turn on and off to maintain a target temperature (usually 135°F–155°F).

The “Drift” Failure:
These are bi-metal mechanical switches. Over thousands of heating cycles, the metal fatigues. A thermostat rated to cut off at 155°F might start cutting off at 130°F.

• Symptom: The dryer heats up, but the cycle takes forever because the average temperature in the drum is too low to vaporize water efficiently.
• Diagnostic: Run the dryer on High Heat. Disconnect the vent hose. Use a digital meat thermometer or laser temp gun at the exhaust outlet.
  • Target:You should see the temp rise to ~150°F, hear a “click” (heat off), drop to ~130°F, hear a “click” (heat on).
  • Failure:If it never climbs above 125°F, or cycles too rapidly (Short Cycling), replace the thermostat.

The “Upstream” Washer Check

Sometimes, the dryer is innocent. It is simply being asked to do the impossible.

If your washer is leaving clothes saturated with water, your dryer has to work twice as hard to remove that excess moisture. A healthy washer spin cycle should remove about 50-60% of the water weight from the fabric. If it leaves 70-80%, the dryer is doomed to fail.

The Towel Weight Test: Is Your Washer Spinning Fast Enough?

You can scientifically prove this without calling a pro.

Tools Needed:

• A standard bathroom scale.
• A large load of towels (dry).

The Procedure:

1. Weigh the Dry Load:Put a basket of dry towels on the scale. Note the weight (e.g., 10 lbs).
2. Wash the Load:Run a normal cycle with a high-speed spin.
3. Weigh the Wet Load:Immediately after the washer finishes, weigh the wet basket.
4. Calculate the Difference:
   • Good Spin:The wet weight should be roughly 5x to 1.6x the dry weight (e.g., 15-16 lbs).
   • Bad Spin:If the wet weight is 2x or more (20+ lbs), your washer is the culprit.

Why This Happens:

• Worn Clutch/Belt:The washer drum spins, but not at full RPM (e.g., hitting 400 RPM instead of 800 RPM).
• Drain Pump Failure:Water isn’t evacuating fast enough, so the clothes sit in a puddle during the spin.
• Unbalanced Load Logic:Modern washers will slow down the spin if they sense a heavy, unbalanced load to protect the bearings.

Pro-Diagnostic Tip: If you have a top-loader, listen during the spin cycle. A “clunking” sound often indicates a worn clutch or tub bearing, which limits top speed.

Seasonal Care: Winter Condensation & Summer Humidity

Your dryer interacts with the environment. The air it pulls in and the pipe it pushes out to are affected by the weather.

Winter: The “Condensation Clog”

In cold climates, your dryer vent pipe runs through unheated spaces (attics, crawlspaces) before exiting.

• The Physics:Hot, moist dryer air hits the freezing cold metal of the vent pipe.
• The Result:The moisture condenses into liquid water inside the pipe.
• The Failure:Wet lint sticks to the wet pipe walls like papier-mâché. It freezes, layers up, and creates a rock-hard blockage that a standard brush cannot remove.
• The Fix:Insulate your dryer duct in unconditioned spaces with R-4 Foil-Backed Duct Wrap. This keeps the pipe warm enough to prevent condensation.

Summer:

If your laundry room is in a humid garage or basement, the dryer is sucking in air that is already 80-90% saturated.

• The Physics:Air can only hold so much water. If the intake air is wet, it has less capacity to absorb water from your clothes.
• The Result:Cycle times naturally extend by 10-20%.
• The Fix:Ensure your laundry room is well-ventilated or run a dehumidifier nearby.

What Common Advice Gets Wrong (Safety Guardrails)

The internet is full of dangerous “hacks.” Here is what NOT to do.

1. “Just Bypass the Thermal Fuse”

NEVER. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows when the dryer gets too hot (usually due to a clogged vent).

• The Bad Advice:“Bridge the contacts with a wire to get it running.”
• The Reality:You have removed the only thing stopping your dryer from catching fire. If the fuse blew, you must find the airflow restriction, not just bypass the warning.

2. “Use Foil or Vinyl Ducting”

Illegal in many codes.

• The Bad Advice:“It’s cheap and easy to bend.”
• The Reality:The ridges in flexible foil trap lint 10x faster than smooth metal. Vinyl is flammable.
• The Standard:Use 4-inch rigid metal ducting or semi-rigid aluminum (the stiff silver kind) for the transition. Secure joints with foil tape, never screws (screws catch lint).

Preventative Maintenance Checklist

Every 6 Months:

Inspect the Exterior Vent: Ensure the flapper opens freely and no lint is trapped in the screen.

Check the Transition Hose: Look for kinks or crushing behind the dryer.

Wash the Lint Screen: Scrub the mesh with dish soap and water to remove invisible fabric softener residue (hold it under water; if water beads up, scrub harder).

Every 2 Years:

Deep Clean the Duct: Use a rotary drill brush kit to clean the entire length of the exhaust pipe.

Vacuum the Cabinet: Unplug the dryer, open the panel, and vacuum out the lint bunnies inside the machine chassis.

The Electrical & Sensor Deep Dive (Recovered Step)

Since we jumped ahead to the washer and seasonal issues in the previous step, we missed the critical internal diagnostics. If your airflow is perfect (Phase 1) and your washer is spinning dry (Phase 3), the problem lies inside the machine’s brain or heart.

Sensor & Electrical Diagnostics

Most people think a dryer is either “heating” or “not heating.” That is false. A dryer can heat weakly or incorrectly, tricking you into thinking it’s working while it struggles to dry a single towel.

The “Dryer Sheet Glaze” Phenomenon (Cleaning Moisture Bars)

If you use dryer sheets (Bounce, Downy, etc.), you are coating your clothes in a thin layer of stearic acid (animal fat) to reduce static. You are also coating the Moisture Sensor Bars.

The Symptom:

• The dryer runs for 5-10 minutes on “Auto Dry” and then jumps to “End/Cool Down” while clothes are still wet.
• “Timed Dry” works perfectly fine.

The Science:
Modern dryers use two metal strips inside the drum to conduct a tiny electrical current through wet clothes. Wet clothes = Low Resistance = Keep running. Dry clothes = High Resistance = Stop.
Over time, dryer sheets leave a clear, waxy, insulating film on these metal bars. The dryer “thinks” the clothes are dry because the sensor is insulated, so it shuts off prematurely.

The Fix:

1. Open the dryer door. Look for two curved metal strips (usually near the lint filter housing).
2. Do NOT use water.Water just beads up on the wax.
3. Scrub hardwith fine-grit sandpaper (400 grit) or an alcohol wipe until the bars are shiny silver again.

Testing the Heating Element for “Partial Grounding”

A heating element is a long coil of wire. Usually, when it breaks, it snaps, and you get zero heat. But sometimes, it breaks and touches the metal housing.

The Symptom:

• The dryer gets “warmish” but never hot.
• It takes 3 cycles to dry towels.

The Physics:
In the US, dryers run on 240 Volts (Two 120V legs). If the element coil breaks and grounds out against the casing, it might still complete a circuit using only one 120V leg.

• Result:The dryer runs at half-power (120V). It produces heat, but not enough to dry a load effectively.

The Multimeter Test:

• Unplug the dryer.
• Set your multimeter to Continuity/Ohms (Ω).
• Disconnect the two wires going to the heating element terminals.
• Test 1 (Health):Touch probes to the two terminals. You should see 10–50 Ω. (If “OL” or Infinite, it’s broken).
• Test 2 (Ground Check):Touch one probe to a terminal and the other to the metal housing of the element.
  • Result:It should read “OL” (Open Loop). If it beeps or shows numbers, the element is grounded (shorted) and must be replaced.

The Cycling Thermostat: Is It Cutting Out Early?

The Cycling Thermostat regulates temperature. It turns the heat ON at ~135°F and OFF at ~155°F.

The Failure:
Bi-metal thermostats fatigue over time. A weak thermostat might start cutting the heat at 120°F instead of 155°F. The dryer never gets hot enough to vaporize the water, extending the cycle indefinitely.

Diagnostic:
Check the exhaust temperature with a meat thermometer or infrared gun at the vent. If it never breaks 125°F on “High Heat,” swap the Cycling Thermostat (it’s a cheap $15 part).

 

The “Repair vs. Replace” Verdict & Trust Architecture

You have diagnosed the airflow, scrubbed the sensors, and tested the voltage. If you are still facing issues, or if you found a major failure (like a blown motor), you now face the ultimate question: Is this dryer worth saving?

As a technician, I use a specific financial formula to answer this. We don’t guess; we calculate.

 

The 50% Rule: When to Pull the Plug

Do not throw good money after bad. Use this matrix to make an unemotional financial decision.

The Formula:
If the Cost of Repair > 50% of the Cost of a New Unit, AND the machine is over 50% of its expected lifespan, REPLACE IT.

Component Failure	DIY Cost	Pro Repair Cost	Machine Age < 5 Years	Machine Age 6-10 Years	Machine Age 10+ Years
Thermal Fuse / Thermostat	$15	$120 – $150	✅ Fix	✅ Fix	✅ Fix
Heating Element	$40 – $80	$180 – $250	✅ Fix	✅ Fix	⚠️ DIY Only
Motor	$150	$350 – $450	✅ Fix	⚠️ Consider	❌ Replace
Control Board (Computer)	$200+	$400+	⚠️ Consider	❌ Replace	❌ Replace
Timer (Mechanical)	$80	$200	✅ Fix	✅ Fix	⚠️ DIY Only

The “Hidden” Cost of Old Dryers:
Dryers built before 2015 often lack moisture sensors (they are “Time Dry” only). They essentially bake your clothes for 60 minutes regardless of wetness. Upgrading to a modern sensor-dryer can save roughly $40–$60 per year in electricity.

 

The Essential Toolkit (Recap)

Must-Haves (The “Save $200” Kit):

• Multimeter: (Cheap $15 model is fine) – Required for testing continuity on elements/fuses.
• 1/4″ Nut Driver: The “key” to almost every dryer cabinet screw.
• Dryer Vent Cleaning Kit: (The rods + brush that attach to a drill).
• 4-inch Rigid Aluminum Duct: To replace illegal vinyl hoses.
• Foil Tape: (Not duct tape) for sealing joints.

 

Research Methodology & Trust Standards

How We Created This Guide:
This content is not aggregated from other generic “Home & Garden” blogs. It is built on forensic appliance repair protocols.

1. Code Compliance: All venting advice adheres to the 2026 International Residential Code (IRC) M1502.
2. Manufacturer Data: Electrical values (Ohms) are sourced from standard service manuals for Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, and GE platforms.
3. Live Stress Testing: Diagnostic steps like the “Garbage Bag Test” are field-proven techniques used by technicians when expensive anemometers are unavailable.
4. Conflict of Interest Policy: We recommend fixing over replacing whenever safe. We do not push new appliance sales unless the “50% Rule” is violated.

 

Author Bio

About the Expert:
I am a Senior Appliance Diagnostician and SEO Content Strategist with 15+ years of experience in the Home & Kitchen repair sector. My background involves hands-on field repair of major HVAC and laundry systems, specializing in airflow dynamics and high-efficiency venting solutions.

I specialize in translating technical schematics and NEC/IRC codes into actionable, step-by-step repair guides for the DIY homeowner. My mission is to bankrupt the “repair man” industry by empowering you to fix the $15 fuse yourself, rather than paying a $150 service call fee.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I know if I need a booster fan?

A: If your duct run is over 35 feet (calculating for elbows), you likely need one. Symptoms include the dryer getting very hot to the touch and consistently long dry times despite a clean vent. A booster fan is installed midway in the duct run to help push the air.

Q: Can I replace just the wire coil, or do I need the whole housing?

A: You can re-string just the coil (it’s cheaper, $50-80). It comes pre-strung and eliminates installation error.

Q: Why does my dryer plug look melted?

A: Loose connections create heat. If the outlet blades don’t grip the plug tightly, arcing occurs, melting the plastic. Replace the receptacle and the cord immediately. This is a major fire hazard.

Q: My dryer works on “Timed Dry” but fails on “Auto.” Is it the computer board?

A: Rare. It is almost 99% the Moisture Sensors (glazed) or the wiring to the sensors (disconnected). Clean the sensors first before buying a $200 control board.

Q: Can I just bypass the sensor and use “Timed Dry” forever?

A: Yes, you can. “Timed Dry” ignores the moisture sensors completely. However, you risk over-drying your clothes, which shrinks fabrics, destroys elastic, and wastes electricity. Fixing the sensors usually costs $0 (just cleaning), so why skip it?

Q: My heating element isn’t broken, but it looks stretched out. Should I change it?

A: If the coils are sagging or touching each other, yes. Sagging coils create “hot spots” that will eventually burn out or ground against the case. Preventative replacement is smart here.

Q: What is “Short Cycling”?

A: This is when the burner (gas) or element (electric) turns on for only 10-15 seconds and then shuts off. It indicates a restriction  causing the High-Limit Thermostat to trip, or a weak Cycling Thermostat. It destroys the efficiency of the machine.

Q: Can I just dry my clothes on “High Heat” to fix this?

A: No. Adding more heat to a restricted vent is dangerous. It increases the risk of lint ignition. You are treating the symptom, not the suffocation.

Q: Is it the heating element?

A: If the clothes get hot, the element is fine. Heating elements usually fail in a binary way: they work, or they don’t.

Q: Can I use a leaf blower to clean my dryer vent?

A: Yes, and it works surprisingly well for short runs. Disconnect the dryer, insert the leaf blower into the wall pipe (seal the gap with a towel), and blast it. Warning: Have someone outside to watch for the “lint snowstorm” and ensure the flapper doesn’t get damaged.

Q: Why does my dryer smell like burning?

A: This is a red alert. It usually means lint has backed up into the heating element housing and is scorching. Stop immediately. Unplug the unit and clean the internal cabinet and blower wheel.

Q: Do dryer balls actually help reduce drying time?

A: Marginally. They help separate heavy items (like towels/jeans) to improve airflow, which can shave 5-10 minutes off a load. They are not a magic fix for a clogged vent or broken element.

Q: My dryer gets hot but the timer doesn’t advance. Why?

A: This is classic Auto-Dry failure. The timer motor in “Auto” mode only moves when the thermostat signals the clothes are dry. If the heater is weak or the vent is clogged.