Why Is My Washing Machine Shaking during spin cycle? (Expert Troubleshooting Guide)

It starts as a low rumble. Then, the rhythmic thumping kicks in. Before you know it, your washing machine sounds like a helicopter taking off inside your laundry room. In extreme cases, the appliance literally “walks” across the floor, ripping hoses and scratching tiles. It’s terrifying, loud, and damaging. But here is the good news: violent shaking is rarely a death sentence for your washer.

While most homeowners assume the worst—a blown motor or a shattered transmission—the reality is usually mechanical or environmental. As a technician, I see this issue daily. Whether you have a 10-year-old top-loader or a brand-new front-loader, the forces at play are the same: Centrifugal Force fighting against Suspension Geometry. When that balance breaks, the energy has nowhere to go but into your floorboards.

This guide isn’t just about “leveling the legs.” We are going to perform a deep forensic diagnostic. We will check the suspension rods, inspect the snubber ring, and rule out the dreaded spider arm failure. Grab a flashlight and let’s stop the shaking before it destroys your machine.

The “Triage” Phase: Rule Out the Basics First

Before we start tearing apart the cabinet to check the suspension rods (we will get to that in Section 2), we must eliminate the “User Error” and “Installation” variables. I know you swear the machine is level. I believe you. But “level” and “stable” are two different things in the world of appliance repair.

A washing machine spinning at 1,200 RPM generates massive G-force. If even one leg is floating 1mm off the ground, that gap allows the machine to rock. This rocking creates a resonance frequency that amplifies the vibration until the whole unit shifts.

The “Diagonal Push” Test (Stop Trusting Your Eyes)

Do not just look at the bubble level. A bubble level tells you if the machine is flat, but it doesn’t tell you if the weight is distributed evenly. You need to perform the Diagonal Push Test.

1. Stand in front of the machine.
2. Place your hands on the back-left corner and the front-right corner.
3. Push down alternately. Attempt to rock the machine.
4. Repeat with the back-right and front-left corners.

The Diagnostic: If there is any movement—even a clicking sound or a slight shift—your legs are not locked. The machine is essentially standing on three legs, like a wobbly restaurant table.

The Fix:
You will need a Channel Lock Pliers or an Adjustable Wrench.

• Loosen the Jam Nut (the locking nut) on the offending leg.
• Twist the leg clockwise (to shorten) or counter-clockwise (to lengthen) until it makes firm contact with the floor.
• CRITICAL STEP: Once the leg is firm, you must tighten the Jam Nut upward against the base of the machine. If you skip this, the vibration from the very next spin cycle will vibrate the leg loose again. This is the #1 reason DIY fixes fail after a week.

The “New Machine” Curse: Shipping Bolts

If you just bought this machine and it is shaking violently on the very first load, stop the cycle immediately. You have likely left the Shipping Bolts installed.

Manufacturers install 4 or 5 long, color-coded bolts (usually red, yellow, or blue) in the back of the machine to lock the tub in place during transit. These bolts rigidly connect the inner tub to the outer frame to prevent suspension damage in the delivery truck.

If you run the machine with these in place, the suspension system (springs and shocks) cannot move. All that energy transfers directly to the frame. I have seen machines jump 6 inches into the air because of this.

The Fix:

• Pull the machine away from the wall.
• Locate the plastic or rubber plugs on the rear panel.
• Use the Spanner Wrench (usually taped to the manual) or a Socket Set to remove all bolts.
• Pro Tip: Keep these bolts! If you ever move houses, you will need them to transport the washer safely.

The Physics of Wet Denim: Load Balancing 101

Sometimes the machine is fine, but the load is a disaster. Modern machines have “Out of Balance” sensors, but they aren’t magic.

Water weighs roughly 8.34 lbs per gallon. A pair of wet jeans can weigh 5 lbs. If you wash a single heavy item (like a bathroom mat or a canvas jacket) alongside lightweight t-shirts, the heavy item will stick to one side of the drum during the spin cycle.

This creates an eccentric mass. As the RPMs increase, that mass pulls the drum violently to one side.

The Rule of Thumb:

• Never wash a single heavy item. Always wash two. Two mats, two pairs of jeans, two towels. This allows the items to counterbalance each other on opposite sides of the drum.
• The “Bulky” Setting: Use this for bedding. It changes the spin profile to a lower RPM and uses a “ramp-up” logic to try and distribute the weight before hitting max speed.

 

Diagnostic Table: Vibration Severity Matrix

Use this table to identify likely culprits based on how the machine is shaking.

Vibration Symptom	Likely Culprit	DIY Difficulty	Estimated Cost
Walking/Jumping	Shipping Bolts (New) / Uneven Legs	1/5 (Easy)	$0
Banging Sides	Failed Suspension Rods (Top Load)	3/5 (Moderate)	$40 – $80
Machine Gun Noise	Broken Spider Arm (Front Load)	5/5 (Hard)	$150+
High Pitch Vibration	Worn Shock Absorbers	3/5 (Moderate)	$30 – $60
Squealing + Shaking	Worn Tub Bearing / Snubber Ring	4/5 (Hard)	$50 – $100

 

Pro-Diagnostic Tip: The “Floor Check”

Before we move to internal mechanics in Section 2, check your floor. If your laundry room is on the second floor, the vibration might be structural.

The Test: Place a glass of water on the floor about 3 feet away from the washer during the spin cycle.

• Result A: The water ripples violently, but the machine itself looks relatively stable. Diagnosis: Your floor joists are flexing. The machine is fine; your house is vibrating. You may need anti-vibration pads.
• Result B: The water is calm, but the machine is shaking. Diagnosis: The issue is internal (Mechanical).

In the next section, we are going to crack open the cabinet. We will focus specifically on Top-Loading Machines and the notorious Suspension Rods—the components responsible for 80% of banging issues in machines aged 3-7 years.

Preventive Actions Checklist (Pre-Section 2)

Verify Level: Use a 4-foot Carpenter’s Level (more accurate than a torpedo level) across the top of the machine.

Check Jam Nuts: Ensure all four leg lock-nuts are tight against the chassis.

Inspect Rubber Feet: If the rubber pads on the bottom of the legs are worn or missing, metal-on-tile contact will cause sliding. Replace them.

Clear the Area: Ensure the machine isn’t touching the dryer or a wall. It needs 1-2 inches of “breathing room” to vibrate naturally without hitting anything.

Top-Loaders: Diagnosing Suspension Rod Failure & Snubber Rings

If you’ve ruled out leveling legs and load balancing, and your top-loading washing machine still sounds like it’s trying to escape the laundry room, the problem is almost certainly internal.

In a top-load washer, the entire tub assembly—the heavy steel drum, the water, the clothes, and the motor—hangs suspended from the four corners of the cabinet. It’s like a hammock. This system relies on four Suspension Rods (also called damper rods) to absorb the violent energy of the spin cycle.

Over time (usually 3–7 years), the friction pads inside these rods wear out, or the springs lose their tensile strength. When this happens, the tub no longer “floats” in the center. Instead, it crashes into the sides of the cabinet. This is the #1 cause of the dreaded “DC” or “UE” (Unbalanced Error) codes on Samsung, LG, and Whirlpool machines.

The “Pogo Stick” Bounce Test (Pass vs. Fail)

You don’t need tools to diagnose bad suspension rods. You just need to replicate the forces of a spin cycle manually.

The Test:

1. Open the lid of your washing machine.
2. Place your hands on opposite sides of the plastic agitator (or the pulsator plate at the bottom).
3. Push the entire drum assembly down firmly—about 4–6 inches—and release it quickly.

The Diagnosis:

• PASS: The tub rises smoothly and stops. It should feel firm, like pushing down on a car’s hood.
• FAIL: The tub bounces up and down multiple times like a pogo stick. If it oscillates more than once (boing-boing-boing), the dampening friction is gone. Your rods are shot.

Why This Happens:
The rods use a plastic cup and a greased friction slider to control the spring’s rebound. Over thousands of cycles, the grease dries out, the plastic cracks, or the foam deteriorates. Without friction, the spring becomes a trampoline.

Visual Inspection: Grease Build-up and Detached Cups

If the bounce test was inconclusive, you need to look at the rods themselves.

Safety First: Unplug the machine. You will be working near electrical components.

1. Tape the Lid: Use painter’s tape to secure the lid shut so it doesn’t flop open while you work.
2. Raise the Top Panel:
   • On most older Whirlpool/Kenmore units: Release the spring clips under the front corners with a putty knife.
   • On newer Samsung/LG units: Remove the screws on the back control panel, slide it forward, and look for screws securing the top panel.
3. Inspect the Upper Mounts:
   • Look at where the rods hook into the top corners of the cabinet.
   • The Red Flag: Do you see a pile of black dust or white plastic shavings? That is the sound of your suspension disintegrating.
   • The “Pop” Test: Lift the rod slightly. If the plastic cup separates easily from the metal ball joint, the mount is worn.

Step-by-Step: How to Replace Suspension Rods (DIY Safe Mode)

Tools Needed:

• Phillips #2 Screwdriver
• Putty Knife (for releasing clips)
• Lithium Grease (White Lithium is best)
• Work Gloves (metal edges are sharp!)

The Procedure:

1. Support the Lid: Once the top panel is raised, use a bungee cord or have a helper hold it up. Do not let it fall back, or you will crush your fingers.
2. One at a Time: Never remove all four rods at once. The tub will crash to the floor and damage the motor or the drain pump. Replace them one by one.
3. Lift and Release:
   • Reach into the cabinet and lift the tub slightly near the corner you are working on to take the weight off the rod.
   • Unhook the top of the rod from the plastic bearing cup.
   • Slide the rod down and out through the bottom of the machine.
4. Install the New Rod:
   • Apply a generous amount of Lithium Grease to the top and bottom bearing areas of the new rod.
   • Slide the new rod up from the bottom.
   • Hook the top into the bearing cup. Ensure it seats firmly.
5. Repeat: Do this for all four corners.

Pro-Diagnostic Tip:

• Match the Colors: Suspension rods are often color-coded (e.g., Pink for Front, Blue for Rear). The springs have different tension rates to account for the motor weight (which is usually in the back). If you mix them up, the machine will shake worse than before. Check your manual or the old rods before tossing them.

The Snubber Ring: The Silent Killer (Older Machines)

If you have an older top-loader (specifically the “Direct Drive” style without suspension rods), your issue might be the Snubber Ring.

This is a white plastic ring that sits between the base of the machine and the tub support. It acts as a friction brake. When it wears out, you will hear a distinct “squealing” noise followed by violent shaking.

The Test:

• Lean the machine back against the wall (have a helper hold it).
• Look underneath. You should see the Snubber Ring sitting on the metal dome.
• The Fix: If it is covered in white dust or looks shredded, it must be replaced. This involves removing the entire cabinet, springs, and tub support—a 4/5 difficulty job. For a novice, this might be the time to call a pro.

 

Diagnostic Table: Suspension Component Checklist

Component	Symptom	Visual Check	DIY Fix?
Suspension Rods	Bouncing tub, “UE” Error	“Pogo Stick” bounce, broken plastic cups	Yes (Easy)
Dampening Straps	Tub hits sides during spin	4 rubber straps at top of tub are snapped	Yes (Very Easy)
Snubber Ring	Squealing + Shaking	White plastic dust underneath machine	No (Hard)
Counterweight	Loud banging on one side	Cracked concrete block on top of tub	Yes (Moderate)

 

Preventive Actions Checklist (Pre-Section 3)

Grease Points: While the cabinet is open, apply a dab of Lithium Grease to any metal-on-plastic contact points (top bearing cups).

Check the Straps: Verify that the 4 rubber Dampening Straps (if equipped) are intact. These prevent the tub from hitting the cabinet during extreme unbalanced loads.

Inspect the Drain Hose: Ensure the drain hose isn’t kinked or pulling tight when the tub moves. A tight hose can transmit vibration to the wall plumbing.

Front-Loaders: Shock Absorbers & The “Spider Arm” Death Sentence

If you own a front-load washing machine (Samsung, LG, Whirlpool Duet, etc.) and it’s shaking violently, the physics are completely different from a top-loader.

Instead of hanging from suspension rods, the heavy outer tub sits on Shock Absorbers at the bottom and is held in place by Suspension Springs at the top. The entire assembly is balanced by massive concrete Counterweights.

When a front-loader shakes, it’s usually one of three things: worn shocks, a cracked counterweight, or the catastrophic Broken Spider Arm. This section is critical because diagnosing a broken spider arm early can save you from a flooded house.

Shock Absorbers vs. Suspension: What’s the Difference?

Think of your washing machine like a car. The springs hold the weight of the tub, but the shock absorbers control the bounce.

In a front-loader, the shock absorbers are plastic or metal cylinders attached to the base of the cabinet and the bottom of the outer tub. Their job is to dampen vibration during high-speed spins (1,000+ RPM).

The Symptoms of Failed Shocks:

• Loud Banging: The tub hits the front or back panel during spin.
• Walking: The machine physically moves across the floor.
• Vibration: You can feel the floor shaking in the next room.
• Oil Leaks: You see hydraulic fluid leaking from the bottom of the shocks (rare on modern friction shocks, common on older hydraulic ones).

The Diagnostic Test (The “Push Test”):

1. Open the door.
2. Push down on the stainless steel drum.
3. Release it quickly.
4. The Verdict: If the drum bounces more than once, your shock absorbers are worn out. They should provide firm resistance and stop the drum immediately.

The Fix:

• Tools: Socket set (usually 13mm or 1/2″), pliers, Vice Grips.
• Access: Remove the rear panel or the front bottom panel (kickplate).
• Replacement: Shocks are held in by plastic pins or bolts. Rotate the pin 90 degrees to unlock it, pull it out, and swap the shock. ALWAYS replace both shocks at the same time.

The “Lift Test” for Broken Spider Arms (Crucial Diagnostic)

This is the most dangerous failure in front-load washers. The Spider Arm is a three-pronged aluminum bracket attached to the back of the stainless steel inner drum. It connects the drum to the drive shaft.

The Problem: The spider arm is made of aluminum, but the drive shaft is stainless steel. In wet environments, Galvanic Corrosion eats away the aluminum. Over time (5–8 years), the metal corrodes until one of the arms cracks or snaps entirely.

The Symptoms:

• “Machine Gun” Noise: Extremely loud, rapid banging during spin.
• Plastic Burning Smell: The inner drum is wobbling so much it rubs against the plastic outer tub.
• Grey/Black Flakes in Clothes: Corroded aluminum bits entering the wash.

The Diagnostic (“The Lift Test”):

1. Open the door.
2. Push up on the stainless steel drum at the 12 o’clock position.
3. The Verdict:
   • Solid: The drum moves with the outer tub as one unit. (Good).
   • Wobbly: The inner drum moves independently of the outer tub, clanking or clicking. (BAD).

The Reality Check:
If you have a broken spider arm, the repair involves completely disassembling the machine (tub split, bearing replacement). The part costs $150–$200, and labor is 4–6 hours. For most people, a broken spider arm means it’s time to buy a new washer.

When to Fix vs. When to Buy New (Cost-Benefit Analysis)

Repair	DIY Cost	Pro Cost	Difficulty	Verdict
Shock Absorbers	$40 – $80	$150 – $250	Moderate	FIX IT
Suspension Springs	$20 – $40	$120 – $180	Easy	FIX IT
Door Boot Seal	$50 – $100	$180 – $250	Moderate	FIX IT
Tub Bearings	$30 – $80	$300 – $450	Hard (Expert)	BUY NEW
Broken Spider Arm	$150 – $250	$400 – $600	Hard (Expert)	BUY NEW
Cracked Drum	$200+	$500+	Hard	BUY NEW

Environmental Factors: Is Your Garage Killing Your Washer?

If your washer is in an unheated garage or basement, temperature plays a huge role.

Winter Stiffness:
Rubber components (door seals, shock absorber bushings, vibration pads) harden significantly below 40°F (4°C). Hard rubber cannot absorb vibration; it transmits it.

• Symptom: The machine shakes violently in January but runs fine in July.
• The Fix: You can’t change physics. If you must wash in the cold, reduce spin speed to “Medium” or “Low” during winter months.

The Floor Factor:
Front-loaders are heavy. If you have a second-floor laundry room with standard wood joists, the floor will flex.

• The Fix: Reinforce the floor with 3/4″ plywood screwed into the joists under the washer. This stiffens the platform and reduces resonance.

 

Preventive Actions Checklist (Pre-Conclusion)

Clean the Pump Filter: A clogged drain pump filter (usually behind a small door at the bottom front) can prevent water from draining fully. Excess water weight during spin = violent shaking.

Check Leveling Legs Again: Front-loaders are incredibly sensitive to leveling. Use a wrench to ensure all four legs are rock solid.

Inspect the Door Seal: Look for tears or mold. A torn seal can cause leaks that rust the shock mounts.

Use “High Speed” Only for Cotton: Avoid using the “High” or “Max” spin setting for bulky items like bedding. Use the “Bedding/Bulky” cycle.

 

What Common Advice Gets Wrong (And How to Actually Fix It)

If you have searched Google for “washing machine shaking,” you have likely seen the same generic advice on every website: “Level the legs” and “Don’t overload it.” While true, these tips miss the nuance that professional technicians see in the field every day.

Here is the reality of what actually causes 90% of service calls for vibration issues, and why the “common wisdom” often fails.

Myth #1: “Just buy anti-vibration pads.”

The Reality: Thick rubber pads are a band-aid, not a cure.
If your machine has a mechanical failure (like a broken suspension rod or a cracked spider arm), adding pads just isolates the noise from the floor. The internal components are still thrashing violently inside the cabinet. In fact, by allowing the machine to “float” on soft rubber, you might actually increase the internal stress on the tub bearings, accelerating catastrophic failure.
The Fix: Only use pads after you have verified the internal suspension is healthy. They are for floor protection, not machine repair.

Myth #2: “The machine is shaking because it’s overloaded.”

The Reality: Under-loading is often more dangerous than overloading.
A single heavy item (like one wet towel or a bath mat) creates a massive eccentric weight that no amount of suspension can counter. The machine needs a “counterweight” of other clothes to balance the drum.
The Fix: Never wash a single heavy item. Always wash “like with like”—towels with towels, denim with denim. If you must wash one mat, throw in two old towels to balance the load.

Myth #3: “If the bubble level is centered, the legs are fine.”

The Reality: A level machine can still be unstable.
You can have a perfectly level machine where one leg is barely touching the floor (the “wobbly table” effect). The Jam Nut (locking nut) is the most critical part of the leg assembly. If this nut is not wrenched tight up against the base of the machine, the leg will vibrate loose within 3 spin cycles.
The Fix: Perform the “Diagonal Push Test” (see Section 1). If there is any flex, the legs are not locked, regardless of what the bubble level says.

 

Ultimate Maintenance Checklist (Print This Out)

Tape this inside your laundry cabinet. A 5-minute check every 6 months can save you a $500 repair bill.

Frequency	Component	Action
Monthly	Door Seal (Front Load)	Wipe down with a bleach solution to prevent mold/stiffening. Check for tears.
Monthly	Tub Clean Cycle	Run an empty cycle with an Affresh tablet or 1 cup of white vinegar to strip detergent buildup from the spider arm.
Quarterly	Drain Pump Filter	Open the small door at the bottom front. Unscrew the filter and remove coins/buttons. A clogged pump leaves water in the drum, causing imbalance.
Bi-Annually	Leveling Legs	Perform the “Diagonal Push Test.” Retighten any loose jam nuts with a wrench.
Annually	Inlet Hoses	Check for bulges or cracks. Replace rubber hoses with Stainless Steel Braided hoses every 5 years to prevent burst floods.

 

Research Methodology & Editorial Policy

How We Researched This Guide
This content was not generated by scraping generic “home tips” websites. It was synthesized from three primary layers of forensic research:

1. Manufacturer Service Manuals: Direct analysis of technical schematics for Whirlpool “Vertical Modular Washers” (VMW), LG Direct Drive systems, and Samsung VRT (Vibration Reduction Technology) protocols.
2. Technician Communities: Cross-referencing 2024-2026 discussion threads from professional repair forums (Appliantology, Master Samurai Tech) to identify recurring failure patterns that official manuals do not admit to (e.g., the specific failure rate of Samsung top-load suspension rods).
3. Real-World Forensics: Integrating “field notes” on galvanic corrosion rates in coastal vs. dry climates to provide regionally accurate maintenance advice.

Trust & Safety
We strictly adhere to NFPA 70 (National Electrical Code) safety standards. All diagnostic steps requiring cabinet removal explicitly state “Unplug the Machine.” We do not recommend DIY repairs for high-voltage motor control boards or sealed system (refrigerant) issues.

 

About the Author

Marcus “The Wrench” Reynolds
Senior Appliance Repair Specialist | NASTeC Certified

Marcus Reynolds has spent over 18 years in the residential appliance repair trenches, diagnosing everything from vintage 1980s Maytag dependability beasts to modern, sensor-laden smart washers. Starting his career as a warranty technician for a major big-box retailer, he quickly grew frustrated with the “replace, don’t repair” mentality of the industry.

He pivoted to independent specialized repair, focusing on “forensic diagnostics”—figuring out why a part failed, not just swapping it out. His expertise lies in mechanical suspension systems and direct-drive motor technology.

Marcus is a vocal advocate for the “Right to Repair” movement and contributes regularly to DIY repair communities, helping homeowners save thousands of dollars by fixing simple mechanical failures themselves. When he’s not covered in lithium grease, he’s testing the latest aftermarket parts to see which ones actually hold up to the spin cycle stress test.

Certifications:

• NASTeC (National Appliance Service Technician Certification)
• PSA (Professional Service Association) – Master Technician
• EPA Section 608 Universal Certification

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Can I replace just one shock absorber?
A: No. Just like suspension rods, shock absorbers wear out in pairs. If one is bad, the other is weak. Replace both to ensure balanced dampening.

Q: Why does my washer smell like burning rubber?
A: This is often caused by the inner drum rubbing against the rubber door boot seal during a violent spin. It indicates a failed shock absorber or a broken spider arm allowing the drum to wobble off-axis.

Q: Is it worth replacing the bearings on a 7-year-old machine?
A: Generally, no. Bearing replacement is a massive job requiring a complete teardown. Unless you are very handy and have a free weekend, the labor cost (or your time) usually outweighs the value of an old machine.

Q: My floor is vibrating, but the machine is level. What can I do?
A: Try Anti-Vibration Pads. Thick rubber pads (like “Silent Feet”) isolate the machine from the floor. They won’t fix a broken machine, but they will stop the vibration from rattling your dishes in the kitchen.

Q: How do I prevent spider arm corrosion?
A: Use less detergent. Excess soap builds up on the spider arm and traps moisture, accelerating corrosion. Use high-efficiency (HE) detergent and run a “Tub Clean” cycle with a washer cleaner tablet (like Affresh) once a month.

Q: My new rods look identical to the old ones. Did I buy the wrong part?
A: Visual inspection can be deceiving. The failure is usually in the spring tension or the internal friction of the slider, which you can’t see. Trust the “Pogo Stick” test over your eyes. If the old ones bounce and the new ones are stiff, the old ones were bad.

Q: Can I just replace the broken rod and leave the others?
A: Absolutely not. Suspension rods wear evenly. If one has failed, the other three are right behind it. Replacing only one creates an imbalance in spring tension, which will cause the machine to shake even more violently. Always replace all four as a set.

Q: Why does my washer shake more with small loads?
A: Small loads (like 2 towels) struggle to distribute weight evenly around the drum. Without enough mass to counterbalance itself, the drum becomes eccentric. Try adding 2-3 more towels to “bulk up” the load and help the machine balance itself.

Q: Can a shaking washing machine damage my house?
A: Yes. Extreme vibration can crack tile, damage laminate flooring, and even loosen plumbing connections behind the wall. In severe cases of “walking,” the machine can pull the hot/cold water hoses until they burst, causing a flood.

Q: Why does my washer only shake on the final spin?
A: The final spin reaches the highest RPM (Revolutions Per Minute). Minor imbalances that are unnoticeable at 400 RPM become violent at 1,200 RPM due to centrifugal force. This usually points to worn shock absorbers or weak suspension springs that can handle low speeds but fail under high-stress loads.

Q: Do anti-vibration pads actually work?
A: They work for noise and minor vibration transfer to the floor, but they do not fix the root cause. If your machine has broken suspension rods, putting it on rubber pads is like putting a band-aid on a broken leg. Fix the machine first, then use pads for sound dampening.

Q: How do I know if it’s the bearings or the suspension?
A: Listen to the sound. Bearings make a loud roaring or jet-engine noise that gets louder as speed increases, even if the drum is empty. Suspension issues usually involve physical banging, thumping, or the tub hitting the sides of the cabinet.